Thursday, September 11, 2008

पुखराज- येल्लो सफायर

पुखराज, ज्यूपिटर की द्रष्टि नम्र करने लिए पहना जाता है । Sagittarius और pisces के महीनो में पैदा हुए लोगों को इस पीले पत्थर के पहने से आम तौर से ज्यादा फायदा होता है । माना जाता है की पुखराज पहनने वाले को मन की शान्ति, धन की प्राप्ती, अच्छी सेहत, अक्ल, लम्बी उम्र, नाम, शोहरत और सहनशीलता प्राप्त होती है ।

पत्थर की पहचान
कोरुन्दुम नाम की वराईटी के पीले रंग के पत्थर को पुखराज या फिर येल्लो सफायर कहते हैं। क्योंकी इस सुनहरे से पत्थर की कीमत काफी ज्यादा होती है, इसी लिए, बाज़ार में कई पीले पत्थर पुखराज के नाम से बेचे जाते हैं। आम तौर पर इस पत्थर की पहचान करना काफ़ी कठिन है, परंतू यदी आप कुछ सरल उपाय लगाये तो कुछ हद तक आप सही पत्थर खरीद सकते हैं।
  1. पुखराज महंगा पत्थर होता है, तो सबसे पहले आप गौर कीजिये इसकी कीमत पर। अगर कीमत कुछ ज्यादा ही ख़ास है, तो और ध्यान दीजिये की आप क्या खरीद रहे हैं।
  2. पत्थर का रंग पीला होता है, जिसमें हरा रंग कतई नही होता। इसका पीलापन जितना गहरा होगा, उतना ही ये महंगा होता जाएगा।

Friday, January 06, 2006

Setting in Flush


SETTING IN FLUSH


Flush setting is an advanced setting procedure. Precise craftsmanship must be executed throughout the process to accomplish the desired look.
First, drill a hole through the metal where the center of each stone is to be.
Fig 1: Drill the metal


To cut the seat for the stones begin with a straight side setting bur one size smaller than the diameter of the stone. For example, if your stone is 2.5 mm in diameter select the 2.3 mm bur. Cut the seat to a depth that when set the stone’s table will be even with the metal.

Fig 2: Size of hole drilled is smaller than the stone diameter


Then, use a hart bur the same diameter or slightly smaller than the stone. Carefully undercut the seat to allow the stone to snuggly fit into the seat. Begin by holding the bur at a 45-degree angle and cut into one side of the seat.
Fig 3: Undercut the metal


Then with a steady hand, straighten the bur to a 90-degree angle undercutting the opposite side of the seat. The shank of the bur must be held precisely at a 90-degree angle to the metal surface or else the seat will be cut on an angle and the stone cannot be set straight. Undercutting the seat in this manner allows you to leave extra metal above the girdle of the stone to use in tightening it.
Fig 4: Straighten the bur to 90 degree


Next, lay the stone into its seat and press it into place with a brass pusher. The stone should fit snuggly in its seat.


Fig 5: Lay the stone in place


Using a small highly polished burnisher rub metal down and over the edge of the stone. Hold the burnisher at a 45-degree angle and rub around the top edge of the hole. Due to the process of tightening the stone; some setters refer to this setting technique as ‘Rub Down Setting’ instead of ‘Flush Setting’.

Fig 6: "Rubbing" the metal around the stone


Do not attempt to tighten the stone by hammering on the metal surface forcing metal over the stone. This causes a dip in the surface surrounding the stone, resulting in an unsatisfactory appearance. Burnishing the metal over the stone is the preferred method of tightening the stone. If you cut the seat properly you will not need to use a hammer.


Fig 7: Burnish the metal around the stone


This setting procedure should result in the stone set down in the metal with a highly polished beveled rim surrounding the stone.


Fig 8: Beveled rim around the stone

Reference:

  1. http://www.bwsimon.com/
  2. http://www.professionaljeweler.com/
  3. http://www.ganoksin.com/

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